The Horniman at Hays

Unit 26, Hays Galleria , London, SE1 2HD

SquareMeal Review of The Horniman at Hays

Owners Nicholsons appear to have spent a packet transforming this Thames-side former tea warehouse – where museum founder Frederick Horniman dealt in finest Assam – into a shiny new approximation of an haute-Victorian gin palace. A Darjeeling and cream colour scheme, tanned leathers, burnished metals and crystal chandeliers set the scene for a range of premium gins. Savour all the usual superior suspects along with new worthies such as Star of Bombay and Chase’s Williams GB Extra Dry (perfect in a Dry Martini). Ales from Wokingham’s Siren and Brewdog’s Nanny State head a cast of domestic and foreign craft beers and West Country ciders – and you’ll be pushed to spend over £20 on a wine list that also has Moët for just £37.50. Familiar comfort food is served throughout the day: pea and broad bean soup; bacon, bubble and squeak; mac 'n' cheese; salads; mixed grill; followed by brownies, tarts or profiteroles.

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