SquareMeal Review of
We had high hopes for this ‘pub deluxe’, the latest from the Galvin brothers (replacing Galvin Café à Vin), so were disappointed when our visit fell short of expectations. Galvin Hop comes complete with a hatch dispensing gourmet hot dogs, and an impressive copper tank of Czech Pilsner Urquell – but draught didn’t only apply to the beer, seated as we were near the outside terrace (staff weren’t keen to move us). The Anglo-French bistro menu has promise: to start, a generous portion of smoked salmon with rye bread was uncomplicated yet delicious, while garlicky Caesar salad was spot on. Mains were less pleasing: spiced-yoghurt marinated spring chicken was dry and bony, with scant spicing – bar the accompanying paprika crisps, which formed an equally odd pairing with the delicate freshness of Brixham-caught lemon sole. Simple sides, such as rocket and pecorino salad, were good, while a carafe of Galvin Terroir Noble Chardonnay made the perfect complement (though a service mix-up saw red arrive instead of white, the second wrong order that we received). This swanky gastropub has the potential to attract City high-fliers, which it will no doubt do if service problems – atypical of the usual Galvin experience – can be remedied.
Complimentary glass of prosecco or pint of pilsner when dining from a la carte
Maximum of 8 diners. Includes VAT, excludes service.
Bottomless brunch: unlimited prosecco, bloody mary or pilsner £15
Valid with a minimum of 2 courses. Available for 1.5 hours when dining from the brunch menu. Maximum of 6 diners. Includes VAT, excludes service.