SquareMeal Review of
Always busy, but off the beaten track in residential SW10, this 150-year-old hostelry has made the leap from conventional boozer to trendy glammed-up gastropub. The stripped-back, pale-green interiors, fancy mirrors and oak tables on the ground floor now keep step with other refined eateries on the street, while retaining a genuine pubby feel. Ensconce yourself with a pint of well-kept Young’s ale or a calorie-counted ‘skinny’ cocktail, otherwise get stuck into a menu of much-improved pub grub that’s caught the all-British bug: black pudding Scotch eggs with Colman’s mustard, braised short-rib of beef suet pudding with kale, ale-battered haddock, and sticky toffee pudding with London Stout ice cream are all catnip to fashionable Fulhamites. Concertina doors open out onto the quiet street, so expect crowds in fine weather.