SquareMeal Review of
The Hole in the Wall Cambridge
Since taking over this pretty 16th-century village pub a few miles east of Cambridge, MasterChef finalist Alex Rushmer has revived its fortunes and turned it into a relaxed destination for locals and travellers alike. The cooking “gets better each time”, notes one regular, while another reckons Rushmer is “a genius”, delivering food that is “refined without being fussy”. Expect plenty of regionally sourced ingredients, as well a host of “innovative flavours and textures” – as in fillet of hake with roasted cauliflower, raisin agrodolce and curried granola or Suffolk pork belly partnered by roasted celeriac, savoy cabbage, charred shallot and cider sauce. To finish, save room for a bucket of fluffy fresh doughnuts with salted caramel sauce or mascarpone and honey cheesecake jazzed up with poached pear and honeycomb. We’ve also heard good things about the Sunday lunch and Saturday evening’s tasting menu, while real ales, zesty cocktails and well-chosen wines keep the drinkers happy. Superb value for money and an “unstuffy” vibe seal the deal at this terrific addition to rural Cambridgeshire’s gastronomic scene.