Hispi

“Understated but cool”, this crowd-funded bistro in one of Manchester’s “coolest suburbs” was barnstorming chef Gary Usher’s third venture, following on from his critically-acclaimed Burnt Truffle in Merseyside and Sticky Walnut in Chester. He’s since added a further three restaurants to his growing northern empire but, in spite of such success, Hispi continues to serve up humble bistro food in a relaxed setting, as usual.

The restaurant has an easy going, homely feel, with cabinets crafted from old Indian window-frames, exposed brickwork and tiles from a salvage yard. The space is open and convivial, and suitable for all occasions, from mid-week date nights to birthday lunches with the whole family (complete with a bespoke cake, if required). Nothing is over the top, but everything is thought-out, from the composition of each dish to the impeccable presentation.

The confident, concise menu shows all of Usher’s trademarks, starting with satisfyingly chewy rye bread served with Lincolnshire Poacher butter. After that, the food does all the talking, from cured cod loin with smoked cod’s roe, radish, lime and vermouth dressing to braised featherblade with mushroom mayonnaise and truffle and parmesan chips, or roasted lamb neck with glazed Roscoff onion tart, courgette and mustard leaf pesto.

Veggies also do well here, with offerings such as cauliflower soup with a parmesan scone and whipped brown butter, and pappardelle made with hen of the woods mushrooms, walnut, Berkswell cheese and lemon butter sauce. Desserts are many and varied and could feature anything from Paris-Brest with baked cheese mousse, chocolate ice cream and chestnut to apricot and almond trifle with caramelised white chocolate ice cream.

The superb-value lunch menu (£17 for two courses, £19 for three) and early-evening offer (£18 for two courses, £21 for three) are popular with local punters, while the drinks list has enough variety to suit parties from all walks of life. In all, the combination of well-executed cooking and friendly surroundings makes Hispi an exemplary local destination.

Hispi is a relaxed and inviting bistro located in Didsbury, South Manchester. Hispi is open from Wednesday – Sunday, serving lunch and dinner. You will find a main menu, as well as a set bistro menu, plus Hispi serves Sunday lunch.

The interior is simple and modern, with wooden tables and plenty of light. The building is hard to miss, affectionately known as the ‘little green bistro.’

The main menu has plenty of British and French inspired dishes, with starters such as lamb’s fat potato terrine served with a poached hen’s egg and harissa mayonnaise, and a Killeen cheese dumpling served with cauliflower, pickled shallot, lemon and chive.

Main dishes include a classic cod loin served with braised butter beans, preserved lemon and basil, and a 35 day aged sirloin which is served with caramelised cauliflower puree and truffle parmesan chips.

If you’re looking for a simple lunch or dinner take a look at the Bistro menu where you can choose between two or three set courses. Starters include dishes such as cauliflower soup and roasted beetroot salad, with mains featuring a butter-roasted pork ribeye, and a rotating fish special.

If you’re heading to Hispi for family dining, you will also find a children’s menu which covers a good selection of child-friendly meals including cheesy penne pasta, fish goujons, and sticky braised beef with chips and peas.

Desserts include many favourites such as crème brulee and poached pears. There is also a cheeseboard served with fig and orange chutney, and bread crips.

There is a large and varied drinks menu, as well as a separate wine menu. If you’re looking for a group booking or a festive party menu you can contact the bistro to chat about options.