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Hip Broadway Market butcher/bistro Hill & Szrok has extended its reach to Old Street, taking over the Three Crowns pub. The space is split in two, with funky boozer at the front and restaurant at the back – including a nod to the butcher’s in the form of a small meat-hanging chiller cabinet by the open kitchen. Unsurprisingly the menu is dedicated to all things meat. A starter of brawn, prunes and pickled cabbage was rather tasteless, save for the sharp cabbage; but lamb sweetbreads arrived delicately fried and soft, counter-balanced by a piquant salsa verde. We’re informed that the kitchen cooks all its steaks medium-rare, and while the sirloin side of our T-bone was perfectly pink, the fillet was more medium-well done. Still, at a charge of £50 for 900g of top-notch char-grilled beef, who’s complaining?
Images by Thomas Bowles
The original Hill and Szrok is a butchers in Broadway Market that branched out into catering. Re-purposing its central marble slab into a communal table, the butcher turned into a self-described ‘cookshop’ at night. ‘Cookshops’ are apparently the Regency-era precursors to restaurants in modern Britain and it’s hard to forget this deliberate anachronism when eating at Hill and Szrok’s new gastropub near Old Street station.With a proper pub in the front and a dining room in the back, complete with a recreation of the original marble slab in the middle of the latter, the gastropub part of Hill and Szrok looks like...
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