SquareMeal Review of
Harry’s Dolce Vita
Long-time Harrods shoppers will know this site as the location for many a restorative Café Rouge steak baguette; now it’s been taken over by Caprice Holdings in a further sign of the group’s ambition of dominating mid-market dining in the UK’s poshest postcodes. Like Daphne’s, Harry’s is Italian, although with its clubby wood-panelled vibe it looks more like the group’s 34, and in truth the menu is very little different to the Ivy Cafes apart from a greater showing of pizza and pasta (margherita, bolognese). And like the Ivy Cafes, the food is decently done, if lacking the sure touch of Caprice’s premier-league venues. Thus squid comes encased in a crisp and crunchy batter and accompanied by an aioli that was beginning to separate, while chicken Milanese needed a side order of macaroni cheese to make it interesting. Prices, at least, are reasonable for Knightsbridge, but the biggest drawback is the narrow, railway-carriage dimensions, with tables for two that barely seat one. Not somewhere to linger, then, but more than fit for purpose for the location – and the handsome bar is one of the few places to get a well-made cocktail round here that isn’t a five-star hotel.