SquareMeal Review of
Hakkasan Hanway Place
“Wow, wow and wow!” exclaims a fan of Hakkasan, who reckons it’s definitely the “sexiest restaurant” he’s ever frequented. Certainly, there’s a “sultry charm” to this “sensual”, barely lit basement, with clubby VIP vibes, easy-on-the-eye staff and black-lacquered interiors making it “perfect for a hot date”. Kick off with Asian-inspired cocktails at the bar, then try definitive versions of takeaway classics and “impressive” ‘small eats’ such as jasmine tea-smoked ribs or “amazingly light” Shanghai dumplings boosted by chilli and vinegar. To follow, readers rave about the gigantic spicy prawns with asparagus, almonds, lily bulbs, spring onion and water chestnuts (“a riot of colourful tastes and textures”), but we’re hooked on the salt and pepper squid, the duck braised with truffle and the “riveting” crispy lamb salad with peanut dressing. No one escapes the top-end pricing, but readers agree that “you pay for what you get”. Multiple tasting menus can keep the bills in check, although the ambitious wine list might push them back up again. Either way, it’s “absolutely outstanding”.
Former Group Wine List of the Year
Hakkasan Group’s wine lists share the same innovative overall structure, with wines separated by quirky categories, like ‘new classics: genius without a château’, or ‘blends: the art of the winemaker’. All have a superlative range of wines, with a heartening willingness to go off the beaten track, as well as reassure diners with a strong selection of Burgundy. An object lesson in professionalism and imagination.
Sunday Offer: Dim Sum Sunday including drinks £58
Maximum of 7 diners. Includes VAT, excludes service.