SquareMeal Review of
“What a place!” exclaims a fan of Hakkasan Mayfair – a Michelin-starred bolthole with “incredibly high expectations” and a certain measure of sleek, party-inspired grandeur to match its elevated Cantonese cuisine. Downstairs has the pulsating feel of bars in sister locations including Las Vegas and Shanghai (a DJ “brings the place alive in the evening”), while the ground-floor dining room functions as both high-end dim sum pit stop and convincing full-meal destination. The food is overseen by group chef Tong Chee Hwee, although some dishes are unique to this Bruton Street address: try the wok-fried pork belly in lychee sauce with plum and kumquat, Szechuan-style langoustines with eryngii mushrooms or grilled Rhug lamb cutlets dressed simply with soy, coriander and chilli. At lunchtime, superior high-spec dim sum might include scallop shu mai with tobiko caviar, crispy beancurd cheung fun or sesame toast with foie gras (what else?). When it comes to the sophisticated wine list, seek advice from the “excellent” sommelier. Overall, Hakkasan is guaranteed to “lift your spirits, no matter what time of day or night” – despite the 13.5 per cent service charge.
Former Group Wine List of the Year
Hakkasan Group’s wine lists share the same innovative overall structure, with wines separated by quirky categories, like ‘new classics: genius without a château’, or ‘blends: the art of the winemaker’. All have a superlative range of wines, with a heartening willingness to go off the beaten track, as well as reassure diners with a strong selection of Burgundy. An object lesson in professionalism and imagination.