SquareMeal Review of
Greyhound Café is a side project from Thai designer Bhanu Inkawat that stretches to 17 cafés across Asia. Its London debut may look dark and minimalist but, once seated, you’ll find a riot of fun. An overwhelming menu (we counted at least 10 pages) features artily-shot food imagery, and we’d recommend ordering four to five small plates between two and then a large plate each. Zanily-named dishes include Complicated Noodles, which arrives as a DIY plate of rice noodle sheets and iceberg lettuce to be topped with spicy minced pork, a chilli-spiked lime sauce and chopped coriander. Much of the food is messy and designed to be eaten with your hands; a mound of crunchy, juicy pork knuckle arrives alongside fiery dipping sauces and a box of sticky rice, while crispy chicken wings are zingily marinated in fish sauce. The fun continues through to the signature Happy Toast for pudding: golden brioche toast next to the word ‘happy’ spelled out in flour, and a range of sauces to top it with – you’ll see it a lot on your Instagram feed this year. Luminous soft drinks, a buzzy atmosphere and staff wearing t-shirts that read ‘I don’t speak Thai, but I recommend good dishes’ are further pluses. Prices are on the steep side, but sizeable portions mean you won’t leave hungry.