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Seasonal flavours, quality native ingredients and a laid-back vibe set the tone at this “unpretentious and good value” Covent Garden favourite. Like its gastropub siblings (including The Anchor & Hope and Camberwell Arms), immense care goes into the no-frills menu here, showcasing back-to-basics British cooking, with well-judged nods to the continent. The menu changes daily, but choices might include earthy wild mushroom and Parmesan polenta, hake fillet with shrimps, leeks and a vibrant saffron mash, or melting braised pig's cheek with cider and quince. Friendly staff make well-informed recommendations and keep service skipping along at a brisk pace, though hearty sharing dishes such as suet-crusted steak and ale pie or seven-hour lamb shoulder are worth lingering over. The cracking drinks list includes interesting wines and well-chosen craft beers, plus seasonal cocktails and homemade ginger beer, making the downstairs Cellar Bar a useful rendezvous.
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