SquareMeal Review of
Goode & Wright
This cosy Portobello Road institution – plump cushions scattered on leather banquettes, wood paneled walls broken up by interesting artefacts and subtle lighting – has taken on a new lease of life with a pair of well-travelled chefs at the helm delivering bold tapas-style sharing plates with global flavours. Our dinner date started promisingly with ‘nibbles’ of crispy prawn filled with basil, and tangy sun-dried tomato pesto with a selection of crunchy crudités. Exemplary dishes followed with deep-fried brie, elevated by delightful dollops of tomato vanilla jam, and perfectly matched aubergine with chimichurri, romesco and migas, a sensational marriage of warm, smoky flavours. Lovingly cooked grilled octopus hardly needed its accompaniments and was only a squeeze of lemon away from perfection. Inventive desserts include Marmite and chocolate Guinness cake tempered by black sesame ice cream, while the worldwide wine list has good choice by the glass.