SquareMeal Review of
Dishing up nostalgia in all the right places, Golden Union is a contemporary take on a good, honest chippie. It has a typical takeaway counter at the front, where pies, jumbo sausages and golden
pieces of battered fish await selection. Out back, everything’s ‘clean and bright’: a funky café space done out with retro yellow plastic tables and squeezy ketchup bottles shaped like
tomatoes. If you’re after fish & chips, you’ll be spoilt for choice, with cod, haddock, plaice, salmon, pollock, scampi and king prawns all on the menu. Mushy peas and tartar sauce are
homemade for that just-like-mum-used-to-make touch, and there are plenty of trad extras: gravy, curry sauce, baked beans and pickled onions, preferably not all at the same time. ‘For the most
part it does exactly what it says on the tin’, although service can be gruff.
Golden Union is recommended for