SquareMeal Review of
Following the success of Viet Food in Chinatown, chef-turned restaurateur Jeff Tan (formerly chef de cuisine at Hakkasan Mayfair) has moved slightly upmarket to open Gỗ. This two-level South Kensington sibling offers a more tastefully designed, calmer environment than its steam-and-street-food sister. The cooking also takes things up a notch, and smartly attired staff quietly allow the food to shine. Vinegar-marinated cherry tomatoes make an addictive snack, before the dinner menu embraces the likes of lime-splashed quail in five spices, foie gras-stuffed roast chicken and Wagyu beef pho. Even the smallest details are deliciously rendered, witness the light, satisfying crunch of the spring roll batter. We especially recommend the salads, each brimming with fresh ingredients. Noodle and rice plates plus wines by the glass (from an interesting range) provide a cheaper way in, but to come here without splurging misses the point. Fans of more traditional Vietnamese restaurants may be disorientated, but the gastronomically curious should give Gỗ a go.