SquareMeal Review of
Named after the people who inhabit the Iranian coastal province of Gilan, bordering the Caspian Sea, this personally run eatery near Archway tube station underlines the nautical connection with
blue and white paintwork, colourful fishing nets and seaside photos. The menu features some fish (pan-fried sea bass with fresh lime, for example), but the emphasis is on rustic regional dishes
ranging from cold dips and salads to grills and slow-cooked dishes. To begin, graze through broad beans with walnuts and smoked fish or a garlicky mix of smoked aubergine and yoghurt before trying
flattened minced lamb kebabs with bread and fresh herbs or chicken stew with onions, walnuts and sour pomegranate sauce served with rice. Little honey-dripped pastries finish things on a sticky,
saccharine note and you can sip cardamom-infused Persian tea with you soak up the vibe.