SquareMeal Review of
Built in 1864 for the German Gymnastics Society, D&D London’s immaculate restoration of the German Gymnasium is a return to the mega-brasserie style of their 90s heyday, with brasserie-style food served on the ground floor (lunch, weekend brunch etc.) and a more refined menu available in the main restaurant. The vast ‘grand café’ space is a real spectacle with theatrical staircases linking the sprawling, marble-floored dining room to secluded tables tucked behind gleaming white architrave pillars upstairs. By contrast, the Mittel-European menu is more homely than awe-inspiring, although its stellar renditions of think-cut veal schnitzel, beef broth with calf’s liver dumplings, stroganoff with spätzle or crisp, gooey apple strudel are certainly no less memorable. Meat fiends will warm to Black Forest hams and ample wursts (including a curry version), while a ‘butcher’s plate’ loaded with steak, ox tongue, sausages and sauerkraut outshines the pedestrian rib-eye with crispy onions. Ambitious pricing is offset by lunchtime specials, and the German-led wine list is heaven for fans of Riesling and Spätburgunder. “Exceptionally friendly” suited staff match the stylish setting.
German Gymnasium is recommended for