SquareMeal Review of
From the awning over the stairs to the buttoned black leather within, Henry Ford’s favourite colour is much in evidence at this stygian steakhouse in the vault where the Bank of England once stored
its bullion. It’s dark & it’s sexy, with shades of Addams-family gloom perked up by cowhide upholstery that adds a frivolous touch of yee-ha! to the show. But it’s beef, not leather, that makes
Gaucho the capital’s favourite Argentinian since Evita: 400g spiral cuts of marinated rump, slow-grilled chateaubriand to share & entraña fina (succulent marbled skirt of beef) all make an
impact. Spatchcocked chicken & black cod cater for less red-blooded appetites, & there are a few options for stray veggies. The ‘prodigious’ Argentinian wine list is a vinous education,
with fine & rare bottles in abundance, plus masses of beef-friendly Malbec.
3 courses and a glass of Chandon: £30
Maximum of 6 diners. Includes Tax, excludes service.