SquareMeal Review of
With 10 years as head chef of Randall & Aubin under his belt, Polish-born Marcel Grzyb is bringing his fish-led cookery to Islington’s bar-restaurant scene. His sister Oriona Robb, in collaboration with designer Mika Burdett, is behind the eclectic interior (green velvet banquettes, Moroccan tiles, vintage rugs) that provides an apt backdrop for the all-day menu of globally inspired small and large plates. A meal might start with a colourful tower of yellowfin tuna tartare, stacked with soft mango and avocado and drizzled with sticky teriyaki; or smoky-rich octopus and chorizo a la plancha. Mains span the ocean, from John Dory with saffron mussel sauce to a majestic-looking lobster pappardelle. We plumped for sea bass, which arrived emanating truffle-laced aromas atop plump gnocchi, bobbing in a moreish broth of wild mushrooms. Scottish venison provides a worthwhile meaty alternative. An enticing brunch list (duck Benedict, perhaps), prettily presented puddings (creamy pannacotta arrives with a scattering of honeycomb, flowers and sour blackberries) and a sound selection of Old and New World wines (though more options by the glass are needed) add to Galley’s appeal. At the front, a compact bar serves cocktails both traditional and contemporary; here, French windows opening on to Upper Street should ensure summertime crowds.