SquareMeal Review of
The ‘rus in urbe’ experience at Hackney City Farm’s scruffy café Frizzante has gone down a storm with east London’s crunchy mamas & their broods. There’s a menu for the ‘young farmers’ – spag
bol, eggs on toast & the like – plus a more tantalising blackboard of specials for the grown-ups. Non-breeders are welcome too, but they may want to bring earplugs & vast reserves of
patience. The kitchen has a strong Italian leaning, so it’s worth trying the pappardelle with lamb ragù or gnocchetti sardi, however strong the pull of a ‘big farm breakfast’ with eggs freshly laid
by the farms’ own hens. Every Thursday, the barn-like space (with its peeling paintwork & dodgy artworks) is miraculously transformed into an atmospheric live music & ‘agriturismo’ dinner
venue, when marinated poussin with peperonata, asparagus soup, & Italian cheese with mostarda, lure in locals for a hoedown, Italian-style.
Frizzante is recommended for