SquareMeal Review of
A venerable gentleman of Jermyn Street, this tasteful Italian has been smoothing out its diners’ careworn creases for more than 60 years. Alfresco tables are gold dust on summer evenings, while the dining room is calm and grown-up with a couple of particularly striking artworks and a brigade of staff who are full of courtesy and charm. Breakfast is a popular business call, but the kitchen saves its best for refined lunch and dinner menus. Creamy Burrata is given an indulgent lift with truffled mushrooms, pungent Parmesan sets off wafer-thin slices of beef carpaccio and sea bass is treated with a light touch (alongside aubergine purée, baby courgette and cherry tomatoes). Start with cocktails in the bar before moving on to something from the accomplished, mostly Italian wine list – just be wary of “real central London prices”.
Wine List Of The Year
Franco’s made it to the
shortlist entirely on the strength of a fine Italian selection. There is an ‘International Wines’ section (including such makeweight countries as France!) and a truly impressive spread of 24 rosés,
but this list is really all about Italy, particularly given that there are 14 vintages of Sassicaia and Tignanello.