51-52 Trumpington Street, Cambridge , Cambridge, CB2 1RG

SquareMeal Review of Fitzbillies

Rescued from receivership and possible extinction by foodie renegade Tim Hayward and chef Rosie Sykes, this Cambridge veteran is back in business with a new bushy-tailed approach. Launched in 1922 and famed as the home of Chelsea buns, it still looks a pretty picture with its art-nouveau windows, gorgeous wedding cake displays and candelabra. Coffee and weekend breakfasts bring in the crowds, while lunch offers a tidy selection of upbeat sandwiches, bagels, charcuterie, savoury tarts and salads, backed by assorted sweet stuff. Afternoon tea is a splendid occasion, and Fitzbillies in now open for supper three evenings week: expect a short line-up of seasonal dishes ranging from grilled quail with aïoli or globe artichoke with vinaigrette to signature ‘porter’s pies’, tagliata-style beef, daily fish specials and sharing blow-outs such as roast chicken. Note: you can book for dinner, but not for lunch or tea.

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