SquareMeal Review of
Atop the Walkie Talkie building (and a floor above Darwin Brasserie), Fenchurch is a visual treat. Once you’ve made it past the airport-style security and up a lightning-quick lift, you’re greeted by professional, smiley staff and a backdrop of plush grey booths and window-side tables. Chef Daniel Fletcher (ex-The Square) oversees the kitchen, which produces a stream of high-spec European dishes using quality British ingredients. On our visit, we enjoyed a near-perfect, eight-course tasting menu which comes with an array of well-matched wines. Highlights included a light dish of Devon crab heaped on toast, upon a bed of soft-boiled asparagus and peppered with seasonal herbs. We also loved our main, featuring tender cuts of lamb served with crunchy rainbow chard, ewe’s cheese and salsify. While our dessert of hot-and-cold Guanaja chocolate with milk ice cream was perfectly nice, however, it was a bit vanilla (pardon the pun). If you don’t fancy wine, there’s an extensive list of cocktails to choose from, including the delicious Mediterranean Spice: gin, basil, pink peppercorn shrub and crème de cassis. Sky-high dining doesn’t come cheap and Sushisamba and Duck & Waffle both boast better, view-centric layouts, but Fenchurch is still worth the trip for a touch of London luxury.
Fenchurch Restaurant is recommended for