SquareMeal Review of
It has been a while since Faulkners dominated London’s ‘best chippies’ lists. The fish & chips may not be up there, quality-wise, with the new breed of ‘trendy’ chip shops (Poppies, Fish House
and suchlike), or even that of the average corner fish bar, but this local institution remains loved for other reasons. It’s a journey back in time, to a decade when avocado and prawns, French
coffee and bottles of Liebfraumilch seemed the giddy height of sophistication. Tongue-in-cheek trendies, cab drivers and pensioners still gladly support the place, ordering its jellied eels,
fried fish (in matzo meal or batter) and proper ‘school dinner’ desserts such as spotted dick, syrup pudding or jam roly-poly. Like the food, the furnishings hail from a bygone era. Sit beneath
the fake beams and Artex ceiling, gaze through the net curtains, and celebrate the lunar landings with a pint of wallop.