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The open frontage of Eyre Brothers’ Old Street site brings the outdoors in – so seats at the front of this evergreen are understandably in demand on warm evenings. While the low lighting and muted colours of the dining room pale in comparison, the menu comes on strong with its gutsily imaginative and full-blooded take on Iberian cuisine from chef David Eyre. A salad of mussels is given added piquancy with shallots, garlic and Jerez vinegar, gambas al ajillo are elevated with a splash of fino, and a meaty dish of succulent ‘secreto ibérico’ (pork shoulder) is served with sautéed Galician rape greens, while the short dessert menu includes a light, fluffy cheesecake with juicy cooked cherries. Drinks-wise, an extensive cocktail list competes with wines from across the Iberian Peninsula. Although Eyre Brothers could do with a lick of paint, its bold, well-executed food and gregarious vibe remain as fresh as ever.
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