EV

The Arches, 97-99 Isabella Street , London, SE1 8DA

SquareMeal Review of EV

Hidden within the railway arches just minutes from Southwark tube, this Turkish eatery is a veritable cave of treasures and mosaics. Part of the Tas group, it’s one of the better branches if you want to indulge in mezze and grills; heaped platefuls keep diners satisfied, as do the all-smiling waiters. Bread, olives and dips arrive unbidden, and a sizeable contingent of veggie-friendly options is a plus, with patlican dolmasi (sun-dried aubergines stuffed with couscous and served with yoghurt) coming highly recommended. Desserts also strike an authentic note – try sütlaç (a rosewater-scented rice pudding); if you can’t manage afters, you can always buy some baklava from the adjoining shop for nibbling later. Turkish house wines are good value, and the flower-filled terrace is gorgeous in fair weather.

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