SquareMeal Review of
Esteban Lark Lane
School was never like this. The old Christ Church Schools sign still sits high in the brickwork of this Victorian edifice midway down Liverpool’s bohemian Lark Lane. But step into the porch of the restaurant that the old schoolhouse has become, and you now encounter strong colours, funky decor, and people ready to party – while snacking on top Andalusian-accented tapas. As the sun sets over a lane desperately short of outdoor dining space, diners pack the patio and compete for tables in the conservatory. Staff bear huge trays of steaming tapas: costillas de cerdo arrive with the ultra-tender pork falling away from the ribs, in a quince and sherry sauce. Salmon curado is equally delectable, the piquant fish marinated in vodka and lifted by a lemon and fennel dressing; green salad arrives with fresh crusty bread. Jugs of sangria complete the Iberian experience – a very far cry from the classroom.