SquareMeal Review of
This chic new Italian brings a very different take on the comforting formula of pasta and cheap red wine. This is an enoteca, a specialist wine shop with hundreds of bottles lining the walls and knowledgeable staff to guide you. You can taste and buy wines as well as sample authentic, imaginative Italian food ranging from plates of charcuterie and cheeses to salads and gutsy meat dishes such as wild boar stew.
The kitchen offers a refined take on pasta dishes such as saffron tagliatelle with lamb ragu and fine shavings of raspadura cheese (similar to Grana Padano); chestnut gnocchi with a luscious pumpkin and rosemary sauce; and a dramatic black ravioli filled with burrata, sundried tomatoes and pesto. Most dishes come in three sizes, making it easy to try a wide variety along with suggested wines to do them justice. The large room is welcoming and informal, with seating at different levels; perch at a counter by the windows, occupy a large sharing table or settle into cosy seats for supper with friends or a date night.