SquareMeal Review of
Fans of seasonal, refined cooking will be happy at Ellory. Although founding chef Matthew Young has moved on, his sous chef Sam Kamienko has now taken charge, while the restaurant is owned by its sommelier Jack Lewens (The River Café, Quo Vadis) and Ed Thaw (who also runs Sager + Widle). This simple box of a room by creative warehouse space Netil House (near Broadway Market) can accommodate 48 diners under bare light bulbs, with an open kitchen providing entertainment. The simple, laid-back ethos of the food and interior translates to the friendly, efficient service. Visitors can choose between a short à la carte or a four-course set menu for £42. Dishes might include thin, pearly slivers of raw scallop layered over crunchy slices of chestnut and Jerusalem artichoke – a combination of subtle, mineral and earthy flavours that intensify as you eat – or a single handsome calçot onion, its deep leek-like flavours matched with splodges of creamy goats’ curd, salty trout roe and sharp pickled capers. To finish, a dessert of sweet pear sorbet, shaved chalky feta and aromatic sage oil is a revelation of beautiful textures and flavours: surprisingly, the star of the night. The two-page wine list focuses on the Old World; one of the great pleasures of dining here is to put yourself in Lewens’ capable hands as he pairs wines, ranging from biodynamic Champagne to orange wine, with each dish. In all, Ellory is a beacon of brilliance in Hackney’s burgeoning dining scene.