Ellory 22

Ellory Mayfields Matthew Young Netil House London Fields Jack Lewens restaurant bar

Squaremeal Review of Ellory ?

Squaremeal London Hot 100 2016Fans of seasonal, refined cooking will be happy at Ellory. Although founding chef Matthew Young has moved on, his sous chef Sam Kamienko has now taken charge, while the restaurant is owned by its sommelier Jack Lewens (The River Café, Quo Vadis) and Ed Thaw (who also runs Sager + Widle). This simple box of a room by creative warehouse space Netil House (near Broadway Market) can accommodate 48 diners under bare light bulbs, with an open kitchen providing entertainment. The simple, laid-back ethos of the food and interior translates to the friendly, efficient service. Visitors can choose between a short à la carte or a four-course set menu for £42. Dishes might include thin, pearly slivers of raw scallop layered over crunchy slices of chestnut and Jerusalem artichoke – a combination of subtle, mineral and earthy flavours that intensify as you eat – or a single handsome calçot onion, its deep leek-like flavours matched with splodges of creamy goats’ curd, salty trout roe and sharp pickled capers. To finish, a dessert of sweet pear sorbet, shaved chalky feta and aromatic sage oil is a revelation of beautiful textures and flavours: surprisingly, the star of the night. The two-page wine list focuses on the Old World; one of the great pleasures of dining here is to put yourself in Lewens’ capable hands as he pairs wines, ranging from biodynamic Champagne to orange wine, with each dish. In all, Ellory is a beacon of brilliance in Hackney’s burgeoning dining scene.

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Ellory
1

Ellory

Netil House, 1 Westgate Street ,London E8 3RL

Overall rating: star fullstar fullstar fullstar fullstar full

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Outstanding dining experience - well worth the trek out from the centre of town!

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Feb 2016

Editor's pick Looking for somewhere different to meet a couple of friends for dinner on a Friday night, noticed Ellory opened and reputation of the 2 founders drew me in. Little bit put off when booking a table to see only offered 7pm or 9pm with a "we will want the table back at 9" booking the 7pm slot - a pet peeve of mine. We arrived a few minutes before 7 and the restaurant was empty apart from 1 couple. We were offered the menu which offered a la carte on one side and set menu on the other. No...

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Adam T.'s rating

star fullstar fullstar fullstar fullstar full
  • Food & Drink: 10
  • Service: 10
  • Atmosphere: 10
  • Value: 10

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    The Food Judge :: Ellory

    We’d like a big white please, we said. What do you mean, a big white, he said, as if a sommelier wouldn’t know that. You know, we said, like a big Burgundy, or a Gewürtz; something aromatic, we said, in unison. There was a suggestion of something orange, but whilst we are sufficiently adventurous to travel to the heart of Hackney, we are not quite brave enough to venture into natural wine territory.
    Out for dinner with the erstwhile book club, we had no book to discuss, but were meeting for old times’ sake. We used to enjoy the book club, but by the end it was simply a book-hook on which to hang an excuse...
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