SquareMeal Review of
Duke On The Green
The new-look Duke now offers serious local competition to the White Horse (aka the Sloaney Pony). A handsome refurbishment has retained the pub’s fin-de-siècle features and ornate gin-palace tiling, softening the mood with appealing colours and patterns. Likewise, food now transcends bar-room nosh, ranging from snacks of chorizo and black pudding Scotch eggs to an enticing modern Brit menu. Launch into earthy ham hock, parsley and bean soup, or more delicate Sipsmith gin-cured wild Scottish salmon with roast beetroot beignet. Pan-fried hake in mussel and chorizo broth might follow, or a beef cheek and bone-marrow pie that will stave off the most wintery of weather – before pudding of lemon posset, or molasses-roasted pineapple with peanut brittle. Drinks are similarly inclusive: Young’s real ales, indie craft brews, cocktails (try the sloe gin Negroni) and a wine list offering around 30 choices by the glass with most bottles costing less than £30.