SquareMeal Review of
The Clock House Ripley
Famed as “the best restaurant in Surrey by miles”, The Clock House (formerly known as Drake's) occupies an imposing Georgian building that has been jazzed up with contemporary flounce and clean, modern lines. For years, it was synonymous with Steve Drake’s precise, boundary-pushing food, although he is no longer involved and the kitchen is now in the hands of his one-time sous-chef Fred Clapperton, who has succeeded in regaining the restaurant’s Michelin star. The dining room’s classic, yet contemporary look is unchanged, while the food revolves around a choice of menus and high-end combos ranging from Norfolk quail with fennel and ‘black curry’ to desserts such as rhubarb with buckwheat, ginger and sorrel. In between, there’s creativity in spades – witness a dish of beef with sweetbreads, kohlrabi and black trompette mushrooms or sea bass partnered by courgettes, basil and black olives. Fans say The Clock House is “consistently entertaining” and “outstanding every respect”, with “just fabulous” service and some “dangerously generous” wine pairings.
UK Top 100 Restaurants
Squaremeal’s Best Restaurants in the UK 2016 is compiled using votes from our annual survey, last conducted in spring 2016. Thousands of readers and bloggers took part and the results were moderated by the Squaremeal editor and his nationwide team of professional reviewers. The survey does not ask for or include any restaurants in London. Click here for a full list of Squaremeal’s Best Restaurants in the UK.
Wine List Of The Year
With wines split up by
style (‘Dry, Crisp and Refreshing’; ‘Aromatic and Floral’ for instance) and including helpful tasting notes and info on the grape varieties, The Clock House's list conveys an awful lot in a painless,
easy-to-follow fashion. Nice to see some local vineyards in there, but a few more suppliers wouldn’t go amiss. Shortlisted for the second year on the trot, The Clock House offers a lesson in clarity.