SquareMeal Review of
Modelled on Mumbai’s famous Iranian-style cafés, Dishoom challenged our preconceptions of ‘Indian restaurants’, and succeeded in winning us over – judging by the crowds that pile into its branches across the capital. From breakfast to late-night cocktails, the focus is on tongue-in-cheek fun: the quirky decor of each venue incorporates a little of its location – think vintage Bollywood pictures in the heart of theatreland or Formica tables and 60s fittings in the Carnaby Street iteration. The all-day menu, meanwhile, leavens its Indian staples with a dose of pure Britishness (bacon naan breakfast rolls, anyone?), while brilliant descriptions really nail each dish: don’t miss Mumbai-style small plates such as chilli-cheese toast, the ginger-spiced, grill-blackened lamb chops, the silky, slow-simmered black dhal, and location-specific signatures such as the mouth-watering braised lamb raan served at the airy Shoreditch branch. Join the queue: it’s worth the wait.