SquareMeal Review of
Aimed with precision at its predominantly corporate clientele, Devonshire Terrace is an airy, tastefully attired Corney & Barrow bar-restaurant that comes equipped with retractable walls, allowing the space to morph into multiple configurations. Breakfast covers the spectrum, from a full English to French pastries, but the kitchen’s focus is lunchtime, when meat and fish get equal billing. The “good quality” choices include prime British ingredients such as seared wood pigeon (well-matched with honey-poached plums and rémoulade) and Devon Rose beef, alongside flavours from further afield: a Thai-style steamed cod in tangy lemongrass and coconut broth, perhaps. Come the evening, tapas sharing platters take over, with a French-leaning wine list providing the accompaniment. The design would never win a personality contest, but the trump card is alfresco dining: a canopied terrace on one side is mirrored by another within Devonshire Square, flooded with natural light but covered by a vast glass roof.