SquareMeal Review of
Del 74 Clapton
London’s taco obsession shows no signs of slowing down, being the centre of attention at this no-frills replacement for cocktail bar Klub Trop. The brainchild of Boho Mexica founder Enrique Vivas and Jorge Felizardo (who helped to launch Taberna do Mercado), this 70s-inspired restaurant and bar is all about being authentically Mexican. Options on the taco menu include sautéed tilapia (a freshwater fish) topped with home-made salsa, as well as a barbacoa option of slow-cooked lamb leg, topped with coriander and onion. Veggies can go for the tinga taco, combining jack fruit and sweet potato in a smoky chipotle sauce. The menu celebrates Tabasco-style cuisine (as in the Mexican state, not the hot sauce) which can be seen in signatures such as the cochinita pibil, a combination of braised pork leg, guacamole and red pickled onions. Margaritas are, of course, a big deal at the bar, while beer-based cocktails shake things up a bit. If you’re pulling an all-nighter, you’ll be pleased to hear that there’s weekend brunch from midday too.