SquareMeal Review of
Avant-garde cocktail king Ryan Chetiyawardana (of Dandelyan fame) has replaced his Hoxton hit White Lyan with basement cocktail bar Super Lyan and reinvented the ground floor as this zippy drinks-led diner. Run in conjunction with Doug McMaster of Brighton’s zero-waste restaurant Silo, similarly eco-minded Cub sets out to blur the boundary between food and drink, both of which are prepped, assembly line-style, at a long bar-cum-pass. A daily menu of 10 or more attractively presented conceptual taste experiences (plus extras) comes with an earnest colloquy on ethos, sustainability and provenance. Paired with a Belvedere vodka, cider vermouth and carrot-top long drink, a combo involving a single yellow tomato, Muscat grapes and lemon verbena offers refreshing relief after a challenging dulse broth that resembles oil-slicked burnt Bovril. Collectively, the dishes meld into one long salty-sweet haze: chervil root and red-fleshed apple with ‘turbo whey’ might precede a ‘meh’ mushroom-on-mushroom medley – veggie options loom large here. Ultimately, the drinks outpoint the food: a coffee and Cognac digestif (plus two sharp fruity pastilles) ends a meal that, however fascinating, has us ogling an Indian takeaway across the street.