Cub 22

153 Hoxton Street , London, N1 6PJ

  • cub interiors 2017
  • cub tomatoes 2017

SquareMeal Review of Cub

Avant-garde cocktail king Ryan Chetiyawardana (of Dandelyan fame) has replaced his Hoxton hit White Lyan with basement cocktail bar Super Lyan and reinvented the ground floor as this zippy drinks-led diner. Run in conjunction with Doug McMaster of Brighton’s zero-waste restaurant Silo, similarly eco-minded Cub sets out to blur the boundary between food and drink, both of which are prepped, assembly line-style, at a long bar-cum-pass. A daily menu of 10 or more attractively presented conceptual taste experiences (plus extras) comes with an earnest colloquy on ethos, sustainability and provenance. Paired with a Belvedere vodka, cider vermouth and carrot-top long drink, a combo involving a single yellow tomato, Muscat grapes and lemon verbena offers refreshing relief after a challenging dulse broth that resembles oil-slicked burnt Bovril. Collectively, the dishes meld into one long salty-sweet haze: chervil root and red-fleshed apple with ‘turbo whey’ might precede a ‘meh’ mushroom-on-mushroom medley – veggie options loom large here. Ultimately, the drinks outpoint the food: a coffee and Cognac digestif (plus two sharp fruity pastilles) ends a meal that, however fascinating, has us ogling an Indian takeaway across the street.

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MONICA GALETTI

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Nearby Tube/Rail Stations

Old Street Station 775m

Old Street Tube Station 924m

Address

Address: 153 Hoxton Street , London N1 6PJ

Area: Islington Barnsbury

Opening times

Thurs-Sat 6pm-12M

Nearby Landmarks

Rosemary Branch Theatre & Public House 854m

The Brewery 1km

Details

Telephone: 020 3011 1153

Website:

Cuisine: Bars International

Dinner: £45 (4 courses + 5 drinks)

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