SquareMeal Review of
This second venture from the team behind acclaimed Mayfair bar-restaurant Kitty Fisher’s finds a home in Covent Garden. It’s a comely spot, set over two storeys of a townhouse, with vintage interiors including parquet flooring, tarnished mirrors and dark textiles. The main dining room is on the ground floor; downstairs you’ll find the open kitchen and an intimate cocktail bar with a late licence. Executive chef George Barson (who also oversees the menu at Kitty Fisher’s) has devised a modish selection of Anglo-French dishes. A meal might begin with a snack of pig jowl and Montgomery Cheddar toastie, before starters such as leek heart with smoked eel. Mains are in a similarly flavourful vein: confit pork belly with smoked quince, perhaps, or brill with devilled crab. The wine list favours the Old World, and cocktails could provide a suitable finale after a pudding of coffee and cardamom cake with milk sorbet. In case you were wondering, Cora Pearl was a 19th-century French courtesan.