SquareMeal Review of
The Compton Cross
The new owners of what was formerly Molly Moggs have tarted up the bijou boozer in retro French, café-bar style. Mercifully, they also maintain its tradition of drag cabaret. On arguably London’s smallest stage (more a box) glamorous potty-mouthed Cher/Divine/Dolly tributes regale punters twice weekly. Extended afternoon happy hours feature cocktails such as the noble likes of Clover Club, Brooklyn, and Russian Spring Punch. Nevertheless, our Hanky Panky (Bombay Sapphire gin, sweet vermouth and Fernet Branca) was traduced by the addition of orange juice, making it more budget hotel than The Savoy – the classic’s 1920s birthplace. Failsafe wines and modish beers are what to order with New York-inspired pizzas (hot Italian, chicken Parm’, Amatriciana) sold by the wheel or slice. At weekends, the room morphs into a high-spirited shebang with pop DJs, completing the entertainment at this heritage funhouse that puts a joyful two fingers up to the clone chains.