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The 1970s weren’t exactly big on gastronomy, so a restaurant reviving the food of that decade was always going to be a risk. Thankfully, Coin Laundry proves it was one worth taking. The interior is suitably retro – wooden school-desk style seating and a beat-up TV complete with Test Card – and the menu follows suit. Classics such as chicken Kiev with Romanesco cauliflower cheese, and sardines on toast (fresh butterflied fish: no cans in sight) focus on quality ingredients and are pulled off brilliantly. The Barnsley lamb chop with potatoes and gravy is the star: a huge tender slab of well-seasoned meat and wonderfully salty gravy. Neither should you miss the spag bol croquettes from the snappy bar menu. Yorkshire profiteroles for dessert are a triumph, as is the cocktail list, which features a Snowball, Sodastream mixers and a Porn Star Martini made with Babycham. Service is warm so don’t be afraid to ask how some of the more esoteric dishes (pig and bean salad, cauliflower cheese steak) are served. To complete the experience, finish off with a game of Connect 4 (other vintage board games are available) in the buzzing basement bar.
Mike and I are currently in the process of buying a house in East London that was last decorated in the late 1970s. The bathroom fittings are pale peach, the floors are lined with the carpet equivalent of a terrible migraine, and the wallpaper is so bad, it’s almost good. Almost. The previous owner, an elderly lady with an impressive collection of arm-wrestling trophies, had once seen fit to install a very small bar in the living room. With a Carlsberg tap. Given that the 1970s is going to represent a very large redecorating bill if all goes well, I can’t say I’m madly in love with the decade that gave the world...
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