SquareMeal Review of
Following the success of Michelin-starred Portland, chef Merlin Labron-Johnson has teamed up with Daniel Morgenthau and Will Lander to launch this much-anticipated sibling – a less ambitious (but no less enjoyable) venture that’s destined to become a top-notch Fitzrovia favourite. Whitewashed walls, gleaming tiles, wood furnishings and wraparound windows set the scene, the atmosphere is welcoming and the menu spins through sharing plates and bistro-style dishes with lower prices to match. Plump mussels poached in saké come with bouncy sourdough, and the same dough is used for pizzas (perhaps topped with clams, crème fraiche and garlic), although we favour the premium Yorkshire hogget, served pink atop coco beans and girolles, followed by Paris-Brest – a deliriously sweet, ridiculously enjoyable concoction of hazelnut praline and choux pastry. Wines also punch way above their weight, with superb on-tap options including Château Pesquié Terrasses Rouge. In short, the kind of relaxed, accomplished, good-value restaurant we’d all love on our doorstep.
Clipstone is recommended for