SquareMeal Review of
Churchill’s Port House
This pukka, port-pimping pop-up proved so popular that its ongoing presence in a Soho townhouse has been prolonged – indefinitely, we hope. Run by Max Graham, son of the founder of Churchill’s of
Oporto, its offer of premium sips partnered by tapas is helping to overcome any misguided notion that the titular fortified wine is primarily the preserve of vicars and old ladies. Equally good
with cheeses, charcuterie, tapas and chocolate, the range of tipples runs from a deeply rewarding, complex 20-year-old tawny (£10) to a top-of-the-range 1997 vintage. Typical small plates might
include beetroot gazpacho, foie gras bonbons, salmon tartare with avocado and pork belly with watermelon. Enthusiastic staff will talk you through options and tasting flights of three;
alternatively, try one of the wines from Churchill’s Estate by the glass.