Smoke & Salt at Chapel Bar 22

Squaremeal Review of Smoke & Salt at Chapel Bar ?

Chefs Remi Williams and Aaron Webster met while working at The Shed in Notting Hill before starting their pop-up. Now they have a year-long residency at Islington’s Chapel Bar, preparing British seasonal produce using salting, smoking and preserving techniques. During the week a £38 five-course set dinner is offered, while Sunday sees a brunch of classic dishes such as buttermilk fried chicken. Our dinner began with pretzel-style rolls (oven-warm and Guinness-glazed) served with whipped olive oil butter alongside ‘table treats’ of fluffy chickpea fritters and home-cured jerky. Next, the ‘BLT’ was a sophisticated plate of plump heritage tomatoes, grilled lettuce and pasta in a silky bacon dashi – easily surpassing its bread-based namesake. Tender grilled spring lamb was elegantly presented with a green garlic sauce and succulent lamb faggot. Dessert of grapefruit, elderflower yoghurt and sugary cubes of pound cake also found favour, as did the freshly baked cookies that followed. A concise list of fizz, wines and cocktails complement the menu, with warm staff and a relaxed vibe completing the package. 

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