SquareMeal Review of
Nowadays, it seems no department store can be without its own dedicated cocktail bar. Cue John Lewis with its comfortably upholstered first-floor lounge – smart in taupe, mink and salmon pink. High-end designers provide the muse for a list of floridly described mixed drinks; a raspberry rinse name-checks Dolce & Gabbana ‘synonymous with decadence, fitted corset with racy prints’, and the Fendi cocktail is evocative of the brand’s gold-framed sunglasses, apparently. Tenuous links and PR-intern guff aside, we appreciate the model Negroni, Grey Goose Vodkatini, Perrier-Jouët pink and fashionista-faves ‘skinny’ Champagne and Prosecco. On-trend, avocado and chilli on pumpernickel toast for breakfast kicks off a short menu that also contains paninis, seafood platter and a cheeseboard, along with gluten-free cakes. Never knowingly undersold, JL’s cocktails are marginally cheaper than chez Selfridges, the store’s Oxford Street rival that’s better for buzz and big designer labels.