SquareMeal Review of
Ceviche Old St
The Frith Street branch of this Peruvian kitchen was a real trailblazer and Martin Morales’ (much larger) eastern outpost does not disappoint. Airy with an open kitchen, the wooden tables and white-tiled walls are spruced up with eclectic artwork which is for sale. Nibble on crunchy cancha (salty, peppery corn) as you digest the menu, packed with citrus-y ceviche but with some meaty offerings. Share a collection of small plates; don’t pass on signature Don Ceviche – a chilli-marinated seabass dish with sweet potato and red onions – tangy and light but with real juicy substance. Similarly, tiradito chifa is a plate of finely-sliced tuna which is so vividly fresh it melts in the mouth with pleasing piquancy, while making a satisfying contrast to the crispy vermicelli. The huevo criollo (their take on a Scotch egg, encased in quinoa) is a welcome addition to the menu; soft and runny inside, crispy on the outside. Other newbies include delightfully tender panca-marinated beef heart skewers with a spicy rocoto chilli sauce, and perfectly pink flame-cooked beef fillet; lovely, although a little weird that it came with chunky chips. It’s definitely worth ordering the ceviche del dia and, of course, wash it down with a Pisco Sour (or three).
Ceviche Old St is recommended for