SquareMeal Review of
Ceru South Kensington
Serial restaurateur Barry Hilton is behind this mid-range, all-day celebration of Levantine cuisine. It's a casual, vibrant option borne out of a series of pop ups around London, set in a colourful and cosy space. You can go for a casual bite on a stool alongside the open kitchen, or grab a booth and make a meal of grilled meat, seafood, salad and veggie options, served sharing-style in small portions. With the feel of a chain-in-waiting, Ceru presents the odd quirk (there's afternoon tea with Middle-Eastern ingredients) but predominantly plays it safe with flavours and ideas. Having said that, the signature lamb shoulder steak arrives doused in a punchy, 12-spice sauce which arrests the taste buds, while the pancar (roasted beetroot dip with pistachio crumbs) provides a delicious tangy alternative to the omnipresence of hummus in Middle-Eastern restaurants. Keen pricing, generous portions and a kids’ menu ensure Ceru's likeability, while Greek, Turkish and Lebanese wines by the glass invite experimentation.