SquareMeal Review of
Céleste at The Lanesborough
With its Wedgwood-esque bas relief, enormous chandeliers and the odd bust here and there, as well as a chap tinkling the ivories in one corner, this huge conservatory is almost a caricature of the best and grandest of British. Coupled with charming, gliding service and acres of white linen, it creates a style to which many of us would like to become accustomed. The menu is predictably littered with big-money ingredients (native lobster with smoked broccoli purée, saddle of wild roe deer with quince confit), but the chefs seem just as happy working with less highfalutin raw materials: cauliflower is roasted and dressed with lemon curry-infused oil and aged Parmesan, while boned quail is accompanied by petits pois à la française and a ring of girolles. “Slick and smart” describes the service, and the wine list impresses without breaking the bank. Despite Céleste’s Michelin-starred status and the unrelenting grandeur all around, prices aren’t too scary and some of the set menus are a positive bargain.
Céleste at The Lanesborough is recommended for
Barmès-Buecher wine dinner
Includes three courses paired with five Barmes-Buecher wines. Price includes VAT and excludes service.