Céleste at The Lanesborough 22

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Squaremeal Review of Céleste at The Lanesborough ?

With its Wedgwood-esque bas relief, enormous chandeliers and the odd bust here and there, as well as a chap tinkling the ivories in one corner, this huge conservatory is almost a caricature of the best and grandest of British. Coupled with charming, gliding service and acres of white linen, it creates a style to which many of us would like to become accustomed. The menu is predictably littered with big-money ingredients (native lobster with smoked broccoli purée, saddle of wild roe deer with quince confit), but chef Florian Favario’s kitchen seems just as happy working with less highfalutin raw materials: cauliflower is roasted and dressed with lemon curry-infused oil and aged Parmesan, while boned quail is accompanied by petits pois à la française and a ring of girolles. “Slick and smart” describes the service, and the wine list impresses without breaking the bank. Despite Céleste’s Michelin-starred status and the unrelenting grandeur all around, prices aren’t too scary and the set menu (only bookable online) is a positive bargain.

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Essential Details for Céleste at The Lanesborough

  • Cuisine: French Modern European
  • Area: Belgravia
  • Price: £110
  • Wine: £35
  • Champagne: £75
  • Dinner: £75/95 (5/7 courses)
  • Private Dining: 12,12,12,20,26,34,36

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