CARTE BLANCHE PERMANENTLY CLOSED 13 DECEMBER 2018
Andy Taylor is the brains behind this new Hackney venture that deals in the same transatlantic flavours as his Franco-American street-food outfit Le Bun. Carte Blanche occupies a modest Hackney-appropriate space with stripped-back interiors, though an open kitchen and artwork on the walls liven things up.
The menu aims to marry fine-dining ingredients with American comfort-food classics, so that a pair of filthily rich deep-fried oysters come slathered with a salty caviar hollandaise and smoky maple bacon, and chicken wings swimming in hot sauce are accompanied by a tangy Roquefort dip. Not all of it works – our fried chicken main arrived with a caviar dip that was way too watery – and vegetarians have to make do with a lone ‘f*cking vegans’ dish, which changes daily. Still, if you like meat, Carte Blanche’s pimped-up junk food, washed down with natural wines, is affordable, buzzy and plenty of fun.