SquareMeal Review of
On the ground floor of a grand pile that was once part of Brixton’s Bon Marché department store, Canova Hall is a prepossessing sister to Hackney’s Martello Hall. Post-industrial decor imaginatively references the building’s Edwardian heritage, with stylish features including wooden booths as found in old-time Montmartre bistros and a goods lift cleverly disguised as a birdcage. Anointed with functioning absinthe fountains, the chunky bar's wine wall hosts a dozen taps that pour everything from an organic Montepulciano and fashionable frizzante to pedestrian house white. Cocktails include a varied range of Martinis, sours, Old Fashioneds, twisted classics and puncheons to share, although we were miffed to be denied a classic Negroni because the barman ‘didn’t believe in Campari’ – especially as prices are more City than old-school SW9. Open for breakfast (beetroot frittata, Italian baked eggs etc), Canova Hall also hawks an appealing all-day Italian menu of pizzas, pastas, meatballs, torti fritti and bombolini (doughnuts). Bottomless bubbles or rum punch lubricate boozy weekend brunch.