SquareMeal Review of
Calcutta Street Brixton
The crab curry. Before we say anything else, you need to know that Shrimoyee Chakraborty’s kankrar jhal is worth crossing town for. It’s glorious, hands-on, sweet and fiery stuff that’s well worth getting your fingers covered in sauce for. This second branch of Chakraborty’s Bengali restaurant suits its Brixton surrounds, swapping out Fitzrovia’s homely feel for an edgier vibe; there's a tiny walled courtyard out back too. While the menu is still inspired by street food and home-style dishes, new additions include chicken chaap – a slow-cooked Mughlai dish with a poppy seed and cashew nut sauce. Aside from that crab, standouts on our visit included the moreish phuchka (crunchy semolina balls stuffed with spicy potato, dipped in tangy tamarind sauce), rich and savoury kosha mangsho (lamb curry) and delicious red lentil aam daal. Low-prices, cool craft beers and fun cocktails add to the appeal.