SquareMeal Review of
Caipirinha Bar at Cabana Brixton
The Victorian basement of Britain’s first purpose-built department store – the now-defunct Bon Marché – provides the unlikely setting for this blast of Brazilian sunshine. The Caipirinha Bar is a lively standalone lounge attached to the Brixton branch of Cabana, the South American street-food chain. A beach-bum slacker vibe is engendered by bright kitsch decor, loud graffiti, surf boards and recycled furniture (packing crates as tables, Castrol oil drums as tub chairs). Try the classic Rio cachaça cocktail in various fruity flavours or order boozy batidas, cooling coladas, dessert cocktails, twisted Bellinis and tropical hurricanes such as Carmen Miranda and Red Parrot – juicy at £7.95. Brahma on tap, Brazilian craft beers Devassa and Itaipava, and modest wine from £4.50 a glass go with snacks of gloopy guacamole with corn chips, or crispy, melted cheese ‘pastels’. DJs spin electro-samba, bossa and boogaloo until late at this Copacabana carnival block-party.