SquareMeal Review of
Seasoned restaurateurs Jamie Barber & David Ponte (Hush, Momo et al) have teamed up for this relaxed riff on the in-vogue Brazilian barbecue theme which is ever-growing in number. Rio-born
Ponte knows all about his homeland’s ‘churrascaria’ traditions, and the venture serves gutsy morsels in a hand-made, streetwise setting of plank floors, poster-lined walls & banquettes
upholstered with recycled jeans from São Paulo favelas. ‘Cabanistas’ circulate through the room, flaunting colour-coded skewers loaded with everything from marinated chicken thighs or chimichurri
rump steak to giant portobello mushrooms with haloumi. Order pao de queijo (cheese dough balls), palm heart ‘pastels’ or chicken empadas on the side, & finish with something from the bespoke
frozen yoghurt bar. ‘Lovely people, & great with kids’, commented one South American mum.