SquareMeal Review of
Burger Shack & Bar
The appetite for Young’s burger shacks, bolted-on to several of the pubco’s south London hostelries (The Wood House in Dulwich, for instance) has led to the opening of this, the first permanent site for the concept. As well as burgers, you’ll find a snappy list of US diner staples here: soft-shell crab, Reuben sandwich with curly fries (£12), chicken Caesar, mac'n'cheese, followed by milkshakes, ices and brownies – all served, street-food style, across a funky corrugated iron pass. The jolly, jumbled, generic (well-executed), 1950s-style interior might be described as The Fonz meets Meatliquor, but the bar is no afterthought. Cocktails include Rhubarb Fizz, Breakfast Martini and an IPA-topped, redcurrant and Auchentoshan whisky Sour. Young’s ales appear alongside craft brews such as Leyton outfit Signature Brew’s Roadie IPA. Various wines from £22.50 are also available by the carafe at this serviceable prototype that’s surely set to be rolled out.